Hotpoint Microwave Repair

Hotpoint microwaves are mostly over-the-range models that double as a vent hood above the cooktop, with some countertop models in the lineup as well. The over-the-range versions combine a magnetron and high-voltage circuit for cooking, a turntable motor, a cooktop light and a vent fan that exhausts or recirculates steam and grease. That combination means a single unit can have several unrelated failures, and the cooking side involves stored voltage that is dangerous to anyone who opens the case.

A microwave that runs, lights up and turns the plate but does not heat food usually has a failed magnetron, high-voltage diode or capacitor. A unit that goes completely dead often has blown its internal fuse, frequently because a door switch failed and the monitor circuit tripped. Door switches wear on microwaves that get slammed shut, and a door that will not latch firmly can cause intermittent shutdowns. On the hood side, a grinding vent fan or a fan that will not shut off are both common.

Owners should stay on the outside of the case. You can check whether the outlet works, try a cup of water for a minute to see if it warms, and clean or replace the grease filters under the unit, which helps the vent fan. If the microwave quit right after a thunderstorm, unplug it or turn off the breaker for a few minutes and try again. Never remove the outer cover; the high-voltage capacitor can hold a lethal charge even when unplugged.

Our technicians discharge the capacitor safely before testing door switches, the fuse, the diode, the magnetron and the control. We check the door alignment and the vent fan motor, and we confirm the mounting bracket is secure. You hear the diagnosis and the price first.

Door switches, fuses and fan motors are worthwhile repairs. A failed magnetron or control on an inexpensive Hotpoint microwave is often close to the price of a new one, and we will tell you that honestly.