Whirlpool Dishwasher Repair

Most Whirlpool dishwashers built in the last decade or so use a manually cleaned filter system: an upper filter and a cylindrical lower filter that sit in the tub floor under the lower spray arm. Earlier models used a self-cleaning design with a grinder that chopped food particles. The newer filters run quieter and save energy, but they rely on the owner to clean them, and many owners have never been told. A wash motor drives the spray arms, a separate drain pump removes water, and a heating element warms the water and helps drying.

A clogged filter is behind a surprising share of Whirlpool dishwasher complaints. It leads to gritty or filmy dishes, a sour smell, standing water after a cycle and extra strain on the drain pump. Drain pumps also fail on their own, or get jammed with glass or a bone fragment. Other common faults include a wash motor that hums but does not spray, a door latch that does not engage so the cycle will not start, and a heating element that fails and leaves dishes wet. Spray arms can crack or clog.

Turn off the dishwasher at the breaker or unplug it, then remove the lower rack. Twist out the lower filter, lift out the upper filter, and rinse both under warm water with a soft brush. Clean food from the sump. Check the spray arms for clogged holes. Look under the sink for a kinked drain hose, and if you recently installed a disposer, make sure the knockout plug was removed. Homes on wells may need to clean filters more often due to sediment.

We test the drain pump, wash motor, heating element and water inlet valve, check the door latch and switches, and inspect for leaks. If the filter was badly clogged, we look for pump damage that may have resulted.

Pump, motor, latch and heater repairs are usually worth doing on Whirlpool dishwashers. A control board failure on an older budget model is closer to replacement cost, and we will tell you.