Fisher & Paykel Cooktop Repair

Fisher & Paykel cooktops split into two very different machines. Gas models use sealed burners, many of them dual-flow designs with separate inner and outer flame rings so one burner can simmer gently or run at full output. Induction models use copper coils under the glass to heat magnetic cookware directly, managed by power boards, a touch or dial interface and a fan that keeps the electronics cool. Both are often installed in islands or over drawers in design-focused kitchens, which affects airflow and access.

On dual-flow gas burners, a common complaint is that the inner ring lights but the outer ring will not, or the flame is uneven around the circle. That usually means clogged outer ports or a cap that is not seated. Burners that click without lighting point to a crusted igniter, and continuous clicking to a wet switch. On induction models, a zone that blinks and will not heat may simply not recognize the pan. A unit that cuts out partway through cooking often has a cooling fan problem or a blocked air gap underneath.

Some humming or buzzing from induction is normal, especially with lighter pans at high power. Test cookware with a magnet and wipe the glass dry before touching controls. Look underneath, if you can reach the cabinet, for stored items blocking the fan intake. For gas, remove both rings of a dual-flow burner, clean them, dry them fully and reseat them squarely. If you smell gas at any point, get everyone outside before calling the gas utility or 911.

For induction, we test coils, power boards, the fan and the interface, and check the installation's ventilation. For gas, we test igniters, the spark module, switches and any flame-safety components. We protect the countertop and confirm parts availability before quoting.

Fans, igniters, switches and sensors are reasonable repairs. A cracked glass top or failed power board costs more, but a replacement must fit the existing cutout, so repair often stays the sensible choice.